Day 4

I was awake for various parts of the night hearing dogs barking and cans clattering. It wasn’t the noise that kept me awake but a dull headache possibly as a result of the climb during the day. Whilst I haven’t started taking Diamox yet, which aids against AMS – Acute Mountain Sickness, I am keeping its use in review!

Other than the night noises, the background silence here is incredible compared to the constant sound of cars, planes and trains at home. There is the odd helicopter overhead as it delivers people and foods up to EBC and back, but for much of the time the background noise has been the sound of water and birds.

Awaking at 5am to grab an early shower the first light was appearing and we could see the impressive mountains on the opposite side of the valley that had been hidden from us in the low cloud the previous evening. Returning from my shower the sun was just catching the top and, as it rise, gradually exposed more and more of the beautiful view as we packed our bags.

Breakfast was the now standard porridge with honey, toast and an omelette along with black tea. Leaving at 8 we wrapped up warm against the morning chill although the day soon warmed up as did we as we started to climb some 400m above the village bring us better and better views as we went.

Today’s plan was to do a circuit of 6 hours climbing and then dropping back down to almost the same level we were at in Namche taking in views of Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam and more.  My highlight of the day was our trip to The Everest View Hotel (3880m) which was carefully orchestrated so that we didn’t have the views we sought until we turned a corner round a wall some distance before the Hotel and then we had in front of us the isolated majesty of Ama Dablam to the right with Peak 38, Lhotse and Everest lining up to the left. This is one incredible view that I have wanted to see for more than 30 years – it takes your breath away although Everest itself is largely hidden and Ama Dablam dominates the view!